Umm Qais, Jordan
Umm Qais, ancient Gadara, is a ruined city on a hilltop in the far north of Jordan, about 25 km north-west of Irbid and 110 km from Amman, and one of the country's finest viewpoints: from its edge you take in the Jordan Valley, Lake Tiberias, the hills of Palestine, the Syrian Golan and the Yarmouk gorge in a single sweep. It was founded as a Hellenistic settlement in the 3rd century BC on an older fortified site and grew into a centre of Greek culture that produced poets and philosophers such as Meleager and Philodemus; after the Roman conquest of 63 BC it joined the Decapolis. The Romans brought it water by an aqueduct 170 km long with thousands of access shafts, one of the longest in the ancient world. The earthquake of 749 sent it into decline, and in Ottoman times only a small village remained. What sets Umm Qais apart is its colour: the Roman remains are built of black basalt, from the West Theatre with its backed seats to the paved main street (the Decumanus), the remains of shops, baths and underground mausoleums, and a Byzantine church on its terrace. Above the ruins stands the 19th-century Ottoman village of basalt houses; one of them, Beit Rousan, is now a museum of statues and mosaics from the city, and the Ottoman school has become a rest house looking out over the valleys.
Come in the afternoon and stay for sunset to see the lake and the hills in the best light; allow two to three hours for the ruins and the village. It is easiest by car, with ample parking, and minibuses run from Irbid. The Umm Qais Rest House in the Ottoman school serves meals for about 5–20 JOD with the view. The basalt ground is uneven, so wear comfortable shoes. Entry is free with the Jordan Pass. Ten kilometres to the north are the Al-Himma hot springs, with separate bathing times for men and women.
Hours and prices change — check before you go. Source: en.wikipedia.org
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